This is an excerpt from my book Wear Vintage Now! Choose It, Care for It, Style It Your Way.
Please see my previous post for information about figuring out vintage fit and size.
There are many styles of sweaters, from chunky knits to fitted Sweater Girl styles, cardigans, short sleeves and sleeveless, beaded, appliquéd, embroidered, hand knit, and major vintage designer labels.
Clockwise, from top left: 1950s sweater jacket on April @la_velvet_belle on Instagram
’80s novelty design sweater from Small Earth Vintage
’50s beaded cardigan from Jumblelaya
’60s sequined sweater top from Morning Glorious Vintage
What do you like in a modern sweater? Something you could wear skiing, a simple basic, or something a bit flashy? If you’re looking for warm and thick, try searching for vintage sweaters using keywords like Nordic, Irish (also Irish fisherman, Aran), ski, Fair Isle, Icelandic, boyfriend, chunky, and cable knit. Sweater Girl sweaters are fitted, usually 1950s to ’60s in vintage, and often waist length. Look for soft lambswool blends, angora, and cashmere—add beads, sequins, or embroidery to your search for something even dressier.
When it comes to basics, I love vintage cashmere sweaters. They beat most modern cashmere knits in the quality-to-price ratio hands down. Cashmere is light, soft, and warm, and it’s not likely to irritate the skin of any but a tiny fraction of the most sensitive wearers. Vintage cashmere knits come in a wide range of styles and colors—they are a practical luxury.
A vintage Scottish-made cashmere sweater like this one from shopwhatsnewpussycat is almost guaranteed to lower your heating bill!
The appropriate fit for knits varies with the style. If you like a Sweater Girl fitted style, look for a sweater with a bust measurement about the same as your own. Very often the hem of a sweater is ribbed; ribbing is stretchier than a plain stitch, as well as being sturdier. What that means is that you don’t need to worry if the measurement of a ribbed hem is smaller than your own waist or hip measurement, where the hem will fit. One caveat: If the sweater is a cardigan and worn tight at the bust, it may gap along the buttoned placket.
If what you are after is a thick, chunky knit, you may want it to be larger than your own measurement at the bust. I would allow at least 1–2′′ (2.5–5 cm) of ease (we’ll discuss “ease” in more detail soon).
Look carefully at the condition of vintage sweaters. Holes can be mended, but when you’re just starting out with vintage, look for a sweater that’s in excellent shape, clean, and either hole-free or with just one or two tiny mended holes in inconspicuous places.
Now that you’ve taken a look at sweater knits, you are ready to delve into woven apparel. Fit is so important in choosing clothing items without much or any stretch.