Thankful

I am so very thankful for all my wonderful followers, customers, readers, colleagues and friends in the world of vintage. On this Thanksgiving Day, my humblest gratitude to each and every one of you.

This has not been an easy month for me, with two deaths in the family, my own health issues and 5 days without power and heat after a massive windstorm. The world hasn’t gotten off easy either. If anything though, I feel more thankful for all that is right and beautiful in the world.



As a small token of my appreciation I will include a unique, beautiful vintage scarf from my stash with your purchase through Monday.

Affection and thanks, Maggie of denisebrain

Back to back black

My November theme is up, and...

I believe I have more black vintage clothing and accessories in stock than any other color—all eras, all prices, all styles. No doubt it has always been a good time to go back to black. 

30s vintage Fashion Originators Bullocks Wilshire gown & jacket in my web store

Vintage convergence time again

I love when I stumble across a vintage photo, sewing pattern or artwork showing an item of clothing I have found...I call these vintage convergences. Here are two recent VCs:

1950s Koret jousting knight print separates. I have had the skirt and the blouse at different times.

Hand knit Mary Maxim totem pole sweater in my Etsy shop, and one similar, worn by Bob Hope in 1953.

Like these? There are lots more on the Pinterest board I share with a group of other Vintage Convergence aficionados—have a look!

Pink yourself up for Breast Cancer Awareness month

As in past Octobers I am devoting a portion of my sales this month to the highly respected Living Beyond Breast Cancer. 

From now through October 23, I will donate 20% of the sale price on any of your purchases from my Etsy shop and web store to LBBC.

Even though pink’s my favorite color, I know it’s not everybody’s. In the past I donated a portion of sales of vintage items in pink during weeks in October. Now, whether you like pink or not, I want you to be able to be part of this. This year, any color goes, so pink yourself up in any color you like!

Thank you for helping with this important cause that affects so many—too many—of us. 

What's hot this month?

The denisebrain October theme is up, and you’ll never guess what it’s about!

It's Labor Day—have you looked for the union label?

Thanks to legions of union garment workers, we had a thriving clothing industry in the United States, now essentially off-shored.

The delivery may be out of style in this 1980 ad, but the message still sounds right:

Look for the union label

When you are buying a coat, dress or blouse.

Remember somewhere our union’s sewing

our wages going to feed the kids and run the house,

We work hard but who’s complaining.

Thanks to the I.L.G. we’re paying our way.

So, always look for the union label,

it says we’re able

to make it in the U.S.A.

You can still look for the union label, in vintage clothing.

Just a few of the choices with ILGWU (International Ladies Garment Workers Union) labels at denisebrain this week (click any photo for more on the item):

Another benefit of a union label is its help in dating items. Please visit the Vintage Fashion Guild’s

ILGWU page

for the scoop on a number of union labels and their dates. 

“Symbol of decency, fair labor standards, the American way of life”

ILGWU parade float bearing the union label, December 7, 1960. Photographer unknown, via The Kheel Center for Labor-Management Documentation and Archives.

To be or not to be red-lipped

The most recent denisebrain vintage fashion show called for pictures of people’s favorite red lipsticks. If you wear vintage clothing do you need to wear red lipstick? Some thoughts.

I am a horn player, and my lips—their strength and health—are important to my well-being and survival as a musician. I have even considered insuring my lips.

No one plays a brass instrument with lipstick on, and when not playing, what goes on a brass player’s lips simply has to be good for them. I didn’t wear lipstick for many years, only considering soothing balms. Then, way back in 1999, I started denisebrain vintage, and as I started to shoot photos of vintage clothing on myself I felt the urge to add that authentic detail, a red lip.

It wasn’t particularly easy for me to make the jump to wearing lipstick, even just here and there, given my horn playing. I’m always very conscious of my lips and how they feel. But I found myself really loving the look of tinted balms and lipsticks. Now I feel more myself with some color.

Lips, particularly red lips, say “vintage” of a certain era like little else, for less money and less effort than most things. But again, is it necessary?

I would say never.

Some consider a red lip to be anti-feminist “man bait”...just look at some of the vintage ad campaigns used for red lipstick.

Others know that there are some cosmetics that are tested on animals, or contain unhealthy ingredients. They would rather not risk these things.

For me, colorful lips are simply the most exciting thing you can do with your appearance in mere seconds.

Lipstick is well known to experience an uptick in sales during a recession. Why? It is a relatively inexpensive pick-me-up. Likewise, it can signal a vintage look quicker and more easily than even seamed stockings or pin curls. It can make you feel put together, pretty, yourself.

Can it make you look costume-y? Yes, it could be part of a full-blown vintage look that appears to have time-travelled out of the past if that’s what you’re after. Or it could be applied in a modern way, worn with modern clothing like a single vintage accessory. You can mix-and-match eras and lip colors for a fresh perspective.

If you don’t need lipstick, don’t like it or want it, there is not the slightest obligation to wear it! It is 2015 and most of us have options. If you want to try lipstick, please do look for the companies that do no animal testing, use safe ingredients and responsible practices in manufacturing. Find a lipstick that feels comfortable, even beneficial, so that if you decide to play the horn, you’ll be ready to go! Enjoy the ritual of finding a color, putting lipstick on and wearing it for yourself, not anyone else. See if you like the reaction you get, see if you feel put together and more yourself or not.

Lipstick isn’t something women have to wear, it is something we are free to wear—part of the art and poetry of fashion, nothing more, nothing less.

It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that...

You guessed it—BLING! The good news is that bling-y jewelry is really in for fall. The better news is that vintage bling is the best—at the best price—that you will find!

My September theme is a small tribute:

Some of the vintage rhinestone pieces in my Etsy shop right now

This September, don’t be afraid to sparkle!

I thank you, the elephants thank you!

This morning I was able to make a donation of $253 to the Elephant Crisis Fund, administered by the World Conservation Network. I could not do that by myself—only with your concern and caring. I’ve said it many times and I’ll say it again: Denisebrain has the best customers!!

Image credit: Four Oaks/Shutterstock

*Closet* Environmentalist

I sell vintage fashion. And I want to save endangered species and the environment. Unrelated? Nope!

There’s no reason not to bring joy and beauty to ourselves and others through our dress, but there is every reason to make the right choices about what we choose to hang in our closets.

Cute, fashionable, new clothing—cheaply and quickly produced—is known as “fast fashion.” It has become the standard in fashion merchandising. What you will often get with fast fashion:

•     dangerous and even lethal working conditions for the workers

•     air and water pollution from its production

•     enormous waste dumped on the planet when it goes unsold or is discarded

That’s why I want you to become a Closet Environmentalist!

It’s really simple: Fast fashion robs the world. You can help the world with your actions and that includes what you wear.

Vintage fashion is the time-traveling, green, smart and beautiful answer to fast fashion.

It’s because of my great customers that I’ve been able to raise awareness and funds for endangered species and their habitats, most especially Save the Manatee Club and Conservation Northwest.

Lots of you are already passionate about vintage for many good reasons. Looking to your closet to help the environment is yet one more great reason that vintage makes the world a better place!

Don’t forget, through the end of August 30% of your purchase price from the denisebrain web store or Etsy shop will go to a vital cause, the Elephant Crisis Fund.

World Elephant Day

Elephants are in crisis. World Elephant Day was founded to bring people together to help conserve and protect elephants from the numerous threats they face. 

Most pressingly, the slaughter of African elephants for their ivory is leading rapidly toward their extinction. These beloved animals are known for their high intelligence, self-awareness, altruism, grief, learning, compassion, affection, cooperation, memory, allomothering, mimicry, play, use of tools, and empathy. Aristotle once said that elephants are “the animal which surpasses all others in wit and mind.”

Charl Durand/Pexels

How can we stand by when nearly 100 of these magnificent creatures are brutally slaughtered by poachers in the illegal ivory trade every day? The answers is we can’t. What kind of world would it be without the elephant?

Courtesy of GoodFon.com

Today, and through the end of August, 30% of your purchase price from my Etsy shop and web store will go to the Elephant Crisis Fund. This is being administered by two great organizations, Save the Elephants and Wildlife Conservation Network. As WCN states on its website:

The elephant poaching crisis is now too large for any one organization or government to solve and requires a coalition that can tackle poaching, ivory trafficking and ivory demand. The role of the Elephant Crisis Fund is to quickly fund the most innovative and effective projects in these three areas across the coalition. From fuel for a small plane to provide aerial surveillance over a national park in Kenya to anti‐ivory campaigns featuring celebrities in China, the Elephant Crisis Fund identifies and supports the most critical initiatives that can save elephants.

With the future of African elephants hanging by a thread, this is the moment for us to take action. Please donate directly to the Elephant Crisis Fund, or if you’ve been eyeing something in my shops, make the purchase now, knowing you are contributing to this vital cause.

If your funds are low (I understand!), please help by spreading the word.

Spice is the variety

Looking at Pantone’s color forecast for fall 2015 makes me want to eat curry. Herbs and spices are on the menu, along with earthy bright colors. Every color looks like it was selected from a Moroccan rug. My August theme is a tribute to this savory fall palette: 

Fabric term of the week: Block printing

Did you ever carve the smooth-cut face of a raw potato, ink it up and stamp prints with it? Same idea as block printing, only in my experience, the potato is a sorry mess before you can say French Fry. Block printing, using durable stamp surfaces, still must take incredible patience and skill. 

Block printing 

Hand-printing method, using carved wooden or linoleum blocks.

From Fabric Sewing Guide by Claire Schaeffer. Krause Publications, Cincinnati, 2008. Used by permission.

Hand block printing in process, courtesy of Rubina Magazine

Block printed cotton gauze from India ©Vintage Fashion Guild, photo by Margaret Wilds/denisebrain

Right now in my Etsy shop you can see the fabric from which I shot the close up, in its finished form. 

1970s dress by Anokhi - Jaipur India

This Treacy Lowe - London dress was also made in India in the 1970s, this time in block-printed silk.

Fabric of the week: Jacquard knit

If you have a patterned knit (not printed, but patterned by the design of the yarns used), you have a jacquard knit. Think 1970s and 80s rainbow heart sweaters...among many other items from the 1960s, 70s and 80s. A jacquard knit may also be a patterned hand knit. 

Jacquard knit

Either a single or double knit made with a pattern on its face, achieved with jacquard controls on a knitting machine. Any yarn may be used.

The single knit jacquard will have floats across its back, while the back of a double knit jacquard will have a birdseye pattern.

See also: Double knit, Jacquard, woven, Jersey

Nylon double knit jacquard, face

Nylon double knit jacquard, reverse ©Vintage Fashion Guild - Text by Margaret Wilds/denisebrain,  photo by Hoyt Carter

Right now I have this 1960s polyester and lamé double knit jacquard dress in my Etsy shop:

The best feedback ever, part II

Yesterday I explained that from time to time I get some really lovely feedback from people about denisebrain, and I save these in a special folder to read when I’m feeling low. This is the second group of notes from my favorites folder.

Your photos seem like more than photos to me. Each of your photos looks like a stand still scene from a fun or interesting event.

❤︎

It is fun to go shopping there, every item has a story and she tells it well. She is as happy and cheerful as she looks in all her presentations, shows a real love for what she does, and this spills over into the sweet considerate way she treats her customers.

available from thespectaclednewt on Etsy

Margaret, quick story: received 2 packages today—put the yellow top on, did not notice stain; put box on back porch. Other package—was overcharged, etc. and telling my husband about it got out your box to show him, by contrast, how nicely packaged and personal yours was, compared to other, which was crammed in re-used envelope that seller had not even taken her own papers from. As I was showing Rush your sweet little box, sticker, etc., I saw note and money. I want to write a story, “A Tale of Two Sellers” in which you are the star! Thanks for being so honest and generous. The world needs more folks like you!

❤︎

I just saw this great jacket and when I read the listing I wanted to let you know that I appreciate your accurate descriptions very much. You are so honest about any condition issues and detailed with your pics it’s wonderful to see a seller like you. Some time ago I bought a dress from you—it was in fantastic condition and I was positively surprised as the tiny “flaws” you mentioned turned out to be even less visible. Thanks again and all the best for you!

available from TheHammersmith on Etsy

Maggie is a true vintage expert, she knows what we like, and she sends every one of my items in excellent, wrinkle-free, smell-free, fresh condition! I am always waiting in such anticipation when I order something from denisebrain, and I have never ever been disappointed, Thank you Maggie, for the wonderful store keeper/entrepreneur/and just STERLING person that you are to us.

Believe me, the feeling is mutual; there are so many sterling personalities out there that make my business a joy! 

The best feedback ever, part I

My business is now in its 17th year, and between my years on Ebay, then Etsy, public comments and personal notes, I have received a lot of feedback from both customers and colleagues, thankfully mostly good.

I save out and cherish some of the best feedback I’ve received, the kind of feedback that can lift me when my business (or life!) is in a slump. I hope you don’t mind my sharing some of these.

available from ElGranero on Etsy

I love your pics Maggie - you always give the impression of living in a beautiful, kind and glamorous world. 

❤︎

I like denisebrain because she has a distinct, individual and funky flavor…and she seems to invite everyone else in for the fun, instead of trying to be cooler than her buyers.

 ❤︎

One can easily put herself in place of denisebrain and imagine stepping out on the town.

available from Tranksandtravels on Etsy

Honestly one of the best (& nicest) vintage dealers around & exactly the kind of seller we should all strive to be! Beautiful merch, customer service beyond all expectations, exceptional attention to detail & a huge heart—a percentage of her sales goes to very worthy causes. I’m a huge fan! 

❤︎ 

You are one of the truly rare people that touches folks right down to their hearts with just a smile. And what is truly wonderful is that your gracious spirit and concern for people is genuine. Your surprise at this honor just makes it all the more sweet. On top of that all of your hard work and attention to detail show your true character. 

available from DriftNiceties on Etsy

Even if you just need a mood lifter, window shopping at denisebrain will always bring a smile and thoughts of long gone eras. She makes us all realize we CAN turn back the clock to a brighter, classier, simpler time. 

❤︎ 

I always check out what denisebrain is selling—she makes vintage look fresh, modern, classy and FUN!

❤︎ 

sizing is dead on perfect, shipping and communication: best ever!!! 

❤︎ 

Class Act, fabulous personality, exquisite/exciting clothing, unsurpassed service

❤︎ 

Always a great source for vintage finds! Weekly shopping here is a must! 

available from RetroandRevamped on Etsy

Is that you modeling your own stuff? Okay, now I have to hate you...except, I can’t. You look like you’re having too much fun and feel so pretty, and it’s contagious! Makes me smile just looking at you.  

❤︎

You have really inspired me. I came away from your site so happy! It was fun, thoughtful and very interesting, and I love pink! I have had a difficult time this week with new bidders and was about to give up—“I know you do not take returns because it doesn’t fit but your feedback will reflect my feelings” kind of totally awful stuff. Your listings were so refreshing and I loved the little monthly videos—adorable, and they made me laugh! So, I’m not quitting and I owe you all the credit, you really made MY day! When I get down from now on I am going to just go browse around your store for a few minutes and I’m sure it will pick me right back up! 

available from Mom2Will4Real on Etsy

Hi!  I buy quite a lot of vintage from the US but I really need to send a heartfelt personal “thank you” for the most beautifully presented, carefully packaged piece I’ve ever received! The time taken by you in treating this dress so tenderly has the effect of sprinkling fairy dust over it for the recipient—it’s really special! Just wanted to let you know that your superlative service is much appreciated and makes a huge difference.

❤︎

I am such a huge fan of vintage and one picky dame about it as well. I just wanted to say I LOVE how your site is arranged, how you do your photos, the whole sh’bang is just so pretty and girly and well thought out. I love marketing and visuals and all that and you present such a lovely, polished front!...So, you need to know that I got so giddy and happy looking at your site and clothes and can’t wait ‘til I’m back up on my feet (recent new career path impeding my vintage shopping). Looking at your site gives me extra motivation, because I love nothing in the world more than vintage clothes!

❤︎

Your descriptions of your vintage items are charming and accurate. You clearly are very knowledgeable and have an excellent sense of style, across all the different decades from which you hand pick these lovely outfits. I truly appreciate the service you provide and am 100% behind your eloquent “Why Wear Vintage” article. Don’t have a question. Just
wanted to voice some admiration.

available from ElGranero on Etsy

Maggie runs this shop as if her customers were her family, working hard to bring the best vintage “lost treasures” to we lucky buyers. She does not stop there. These items have to be in the best condition possible, washed or dry cleaned, wrinkles to a minimum and no horrid odors...That’s why Maggie is so refreshing, because she puts a lot of effort into her clothes and great, cheerful service. She means what she says about her treasures being “top drawer,” she would wear them herself. She goes to great lengths to put as much information about each and every item as possible in the description, that makes her store so fun and interesting to browse through! 

And what a fashion plate! The authentic presentation of these clothes complete with all the fashion accessories of the day bring out the true beauty of what you are buying. This gorgeous and romantic blouse was neatly folded, wrapped in tissue and beautifully boxed with designer pink ribbon, that surpassed any fine department store wrap. She takes pride in all she does for us, and I am proud to be her customer. First class all the way!

A little feedback from me to you: WOW. Thank you each so much for making what I do feel noticed and appreciated, and then taking the time to tell me with such personality and eloquence.

Some more of my favorite feedback tomorrow; thank you for indulging me!

Fabric of the week: Percale

If you’ve ever thought a fabric felt like a sheet, you might have had your hands on percale. The exact definition will help you be sure:

Percale

A cotton or a cotton/poly blend fabric, percale is a balancedplain weave with a smooth hand and no luster. It can be limp to relatively crisp depending on the finish. It is finer and has a higher thread count than muslin.

          Uses: Sheets, shirts, dresses, children’s clothing, pajamas

          See also:

Muslin

©Vintage Fashion Guild - Text by Margaret Wilds/denisebrain,  photo by Hoyt Carter

Right now I have a lightweight poly/cotton blend percale tent dress from the late 1960s or early 70s—so summery!

It’s Fair Weather, friends

Just in time for my July theme:

Fabric of the week: Gingham

I would be surprised if anyone hasn’t heard of gingham. I first new of it at a very young age from the Eugene Field poem “The Duel” (better known as “The Gingham Dog and the Calico Cat”).

Gingham has had an almost constant popularity in the warm months because of its cotton fiber, lighter weight and crisp checks. Of all fabrics, it might say summer most loud and clear.

Gingham 

A light to medium weight balanced plain weave fabric usually of cotton or a cotton blend, gingham is most characteristically one color with white in even checks, called gingham checks. Tissue (very lightweight) gingham can have corded edges between the colors (see crossbar dimity). 

The name gingham is thought to come from the Malay ging-gang, meaning “striped.”

Uses: Dresses, blouses, house dresses, aprons, pajamas

See also:
 Check, 
Crossbar dimity, 
Shepherd’s check

©Vintage Fashion Guild - Text by Margaret Wilds/denisebrain,  photo by Hoyt Carter

This 1950s dress and wrap is of gingham check cotton:

There’s always plenty to find in vintage gingham, no need to go with anything new! (If I do say so myself!) Gingham in my Etsy shop. 

How to feel 10º cooler in vintage

No way around it, it’s hot. Here in Spokane the mercury is climbing to over 95º F day after day. It was 107º a few days ago, and chez denisebrain we are thankful for ceiling fans and a house with tall trees around it since we don’t have air conditioning. Oh, and we LOVE ice water.

And vintage!

Staying on trend and in vintage is not a problem this summer, starting with the most obvious of vintage-inspired modern trends, gingham.

Choose a gingham check in 100% cotton for the crispest, coolest look and feel. I love this picnic-y dress from SmallEarthVintage:

White linen is a perpetual summer choice. Yes I know linen wrinkles, yes I know white stains. The trick is to wear something slightly slouchy and casual, where wrinkles and a small mark will not ruin the effect. For me, this oversized 1980s jacket from persephonevintage is the perfect summer cover.

Shorts, especially the skirt-y, high-waisted type from the 1940s. These are not very easy to come by, but they are worth it for the pure flattery. This pair from NiftyLunch is the sort I mean:

A short kimono-style robe is easy to wear, on trend and amenable to lounging, going out, the beach... There are many vintage options along this line, including genuine antique Japanese haori in silk if elegance is what you’re after. This 1970s wrap from NewOldFashionVintage would make a great cover up and has sleeves short enough to allow you to make breakfast in it too:

Try the natural air conditioning of crochet. Crochet is having a big moment right now and you can avoid cliché with an unusual vintage item. This beautiful Edwardian blouse is available from TrunkofDresses:

Another big modern trend that can be interpreted very effectively with real vintage is the cropped top. OffBroadwayVintage has this cropped top with another great vintage choice for summer, a full skirt. Think about it: Only the waist is going to be fitted with this skirt, the rest is pure breeze catcher. The amazing outfit is 1950s-vintage, hand-painted cotton from Mexico:

Some of my absolute favorite summer vintage items are not necessarily part of any current trend, but I couldn’t do without my paper parasol (I get sick of dumping on the sunscreen) and my c1960 Ray-Bans. Jessica of No Accounting for Taste says that it isn’t summer without her 1940s novelty print day dress and a big sunhat. Isabelle’s summer vintage favorites are her 1950s swimsuit and her 70s Guy Laroche sundress, perfect for a picnic. —All great vintage ways to approach summer!